For a total change of mood, head down to Pigalle, the area along Boulevards Clichy and Rochechouard, with the odd diversion into dimly lit streets on either side. Tourists are still driven in to inspect the neon-lit peep shows, but Pigalle is also increasingly the centre for music, lively clubs and quirky latenight bars, as more and more of former cabarets reopen to new forms of decadence. Basilique du Sacré Coeur : Constructed at the end of the 19th-century and completetd in 1914, this Bysanthine-style basilica is situated in the heart of a 19th-Century village of painters, sculptors and poets (Toulouse-lautrec, Modigliani, Utrillo).Also a 50 km panoramic view of the capital. Address : Place du parvis du Sacré Coeur, 18th. Phone : 42 51 17 02. access from st Pierre market by funicular ride. Open 9am to 6pm in winter, till 7pm in summer.